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About this Journal
So I never thought I’d ever subscribe to writing in a journal, especially one online for any one to read, but I thought it might be nice to share whatever adventures I may have while I was over in Thailand. I know that I want to keep connected with everyone from back home, but didn’t see myself spending time writing everyone their own personal emails (as nice as that would be) and a mass email just seems so impersonal. So, here it is: read at your leisure, comment if you wish- and I promise to get back to you if you mail me. Ideally, I will be so busy that I won’t be able to write too often, but who knows what lies ahead. I’m pretty sure part of my service requirement entails me to keep some sort of formal journal, so at the very least I’ll include that. I have two entries due before I even leave, so you’ll know exactly how I feel about two narrowly defined aspects of travel, guided by thought provoking questions straight from Charting a Hero’s Journey (page 1-64).
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Nov. 12th, 2006 @ 09:58 am 28 days
Well, by not posting I am just proving that I am getting my money's worth out of this country and having a decent time. Last weekend was absolutely nuts as the entire city was in smoke due to constant fireworks- and by constant- I really do mean constant. Even during the day, I would hear them wondering what the point was… the point is Loi Krathong- an annual festival meant to show appreciation for the river (I think… although it is hard to tell). In summary, there were too many farang- making the tourist scene incredibly bizarre and massive, riding motorcycles through the crowded streets at 95 with fireworks being shot all around was like riding through a battle field (literally right into crowds- fireworks exploding on cars and ripping holes through clothing- also: a small mishap of a firework explosion in our very own building which deserves no further explanation) and these beautiful lanterns lighting up the night sky like some sort of strange moving constellation (only 50baht to send one up yourself) which was awesome in the true sense of the word- not the way people use it so infrequently now. It was pretty wild.

This week, my friend Becca and I have been taking cooking classes- which has been incredible and I wish Jamie and Michael were here with me. I made the most delicious phad thai and am including a recipe for my favorite dessert- which you have to try because it’s so ah-roi and also very easy. You can put it with ice cream or rum or just eat as is… I am going to copy what my thai cookbook (I can make about 8 dishes now) says but I am sure you can just do whatever. Basically, my main reason for this post is to include this recipe which is fantastic and super popular a la Thailand:

3 ripe bananas (that seems like too many but maybe just go with it)
½ cup thick coconut cream
2 cups coconut milk (you can just water down coconut cream if you can’t find the milk)
3-5 tablespoons white sugar (heck yes)
½ teaspoon salt (trust me)

Basically heat up everything but the bananas until its well blended and to the consistency you want and then add cut up bananas after that (or apples, sweet potato, pumpkin) on top and cook for just a little longer. Yes, it’s really that simple and for some reason heavenly. Coconut is amazing and the bananas are just an excuse to make it seem healthier and more like a dish and less like drinking sugar.

A lot of the Thai cooking is really quick- it’s just the preparation of the ingredients that takes so long, but then you just throw it in a wok and its done. I hope I can find everything when I get back home (including a wok) so I can show off my skills and have Friday night dinners of my own.

Also: in case you are bored and lonely, you can read my latest journal for class with the required and interesting title: HOW HAVE I CHANGED? (stupid title motivates me to mock the paper and write something decent- aka no BS this time… whoa weird)

How Have I Changed?

A simpler question may entail asking how have I stayed the same, as I feel like a completely new person: refreshed somehow. While I have been around the world and each trip has changed my life, I have never been so deeply immersed in another culture that I have felt truly comfortable somewhere else . Because of the duration of my time here in Thailand, I feel that I fit in for once, am at home, and no longer just a visitor. This alone, has given me a wider perspective about the world, how I fit into society, and my relationships and interactions with others.

To be quite honest, I am not sure defining how I have changed is the right way to reflect after all this. It’s not like my opinions of the world are radically different or I go about my daily activities in a completely new way. Instead, my true self is more obvious to me. I have become more aware of what is important to me and how I tend to act in certain situations. In other words, I have noticed how I tend to behave and what I really want is clearer and more obvious. That said, the biggest change I have seen in my life is my ability to be decisive. I feel that I better understand the world which allows me to make informed decisions and have unambiguous opinions. Even coming to Thailand was almost on a whim, as I picked this country nearly at random and more out of impulsivity. I didn’t really know what I was getting into or what I was looking for. I knew I wanted to work regularly with kids, but I didn’t really know why I felt compelled to do so. I didn’t really regard my opinion as important because I never felt justified in knowing enough about anything to make a judgment of my own. I was passive about everything from where I went out to eat to what language I would learn next. I just went about everything nonchalant and passive.

While comfortable, I have come to realize this was not a good way to go about life. I know that I don’t know everything about everything now, but that was never the goal. Rather, it is more important to have confidence in the self so that one can make meaningful decisions or judgments. It has been empowering to be in Thailand for that reason. Because I am more vulnerable (due to proximity from home) I am forced to make choices that better serve my needs because I can more clearly understand my needs. Also, I have realized how limited my time is, so I have learned that I can’t do everything- or volunteer with every organization for that matter- and are again forced to make decisions. I know from doing a variety of service projects, from working with kids, adults, and the environment- that I am most motivated to work with kids and is where I want to spend most of my time. I see so much potential in them and their future that I feel most successful and most helpful. It’s not wrong or right or something that is a newly changed concept to me, it’s just more obvious as to why now.

Besides from being more decisive and having a new found independence, I have been more mindful- which may stem from being away from home, my Buddhist meditation practice, or from volunteering so frequently. By mindful, it is not of my intention to boast or be arrogant, but rather is a different way of viewing the world that involves the careful and unhurried thought process about myself and of others. It’s not that I am any less quick to judge or that I am labeling myself a better person, it’s more that I have an increased state of consciousness of what I am doing and thinking and am more aware of it. I don’t know if this makes me a better person- maybe it is just slowing me down, but it is a change. It feels as though my eyes are open a little wider and my mind is making more complete thoughts. Maybe I am reading into such a change too much and am trying to find something that isn’t there, but it feels different. I feel more awake and less narrow minded- whether that be good or bad.

On a similar note, I feel that I am better able to realize and understand my priorities. I know they’re not the same for everyone- and merely stating that relationships are important doesn’t do justice to how I feel about what is most valuable. It is specifically my relationships that I cherish. Being away from home has allowed me to more fully realize who is important in my life and what that means exactly. I have met so many people since I have been here, which has allowed me to break down stereotypes and former assumptions about others. For example, one of my best friends here doesn’t even really speak English. People who I thought I would never be able to get along with at home, for varying social reasons and misconceptions, have become some of the greatest friends here. It has also been interesting to note who has kept in close contact with me while I have been away. In my first essay, I wrote that people were basically the same all around the world. I am not sure what I meant by this or how true it is, but it is interesting to note how much I have changed since then. I am not sure if I would even note this statement as being important enough to justify discussing further.

Also at the beginning of the semester, I was focused on making a difference and not just being a visitor who was briefly passing through Thailand. While a noble pursuit, and I am sure a difference has been made, it is not of primary concern anymore. Life is short and the world will go on for a long time after me, which translates to me worrying less about saving the world and focus more on appreciating my self and my time in this world. It’s a pretty significant life lesson, and I’m not sure I have fully put its principle into practice yet, but I do feel more content and less guilty about the state of affairs of the world while at the same time still understanding the true value and importance of serving others and helping those in need.

PS: Denzel Washington is in town (as well as Johny Dep...) and apparently he's looking for extras in his latest movie... john and matt saw him and took pictures but his body guards wouldn't let them get any closer.
About this Entry
on mt philo with sean
Nov. 1st, 2006 @ 12:09 pm Stop and Smell the Roses (journal for class)
For three days, I was essentially a monk. The Thich Nhat Hanh retreat that I went to definitely brought up new questions and challenges in terms of my self study, but it also inspired some unexpected conclusions.

I’ll be honest, when I first got to the retreat, I was immediately turned off. The monks didn’t stop smiling and everything was done in slow motion. It seemed surreal, and it seemed that everyone was in some kind of enlightened hypnotized trance that I didn’t understand and didn’t want to be a part of. For example, every time they rang the bell, we had to stop whatever we were doing and close our eyes and find “our home” within ourselves. It almost seemed that I was joining some sort of isolated cult, which is the opposite of what I thought Buddhism was about. It was my opinion that Buddhism was individualistic and not about joining a group with a specific belief system that worshiped an idol Buddha. In hindsight, it’s interesting to note my dramatic change in opinion of the retreat after being there for three days.

The idea of Buddhism always appealed to me in the past. To be honest, the reality of life can be extremely exhausting for me. I don’t like the face paced modern world that I have been forced into. I hate being bogged down by endless responsibilities and worrying about money or daily seemingly unimportant tasks. Sometimes I find it hard to be genuine and socialize with others who are insincere or lack genuine energy. I thought if I turned to Buddhism that all my problems would be solved, which may have been too high an expectation for one weekend or one religion.

The majority of the weekend was spent hearing lectures, meditating, and small group discussion as well as enjoying the silence in each other’s company. Much of the lectures were spent trying to understand true happiness and suffering. Ning, one of the monk’s from the Plum Village studying under Thich Nhat Hanh said that, “living in the present moment is indescribable happiness for me… we can condition ourselves to be happy because you can come back to the present moment and have the ability to touch happiness.” Under this practice, meditation is used to store “positive energy seeds” which can later be used when upset or sad as one can “use mindfulness to embrace negative feelings” (Ning). This gives reason behind practice because the more one meditates, the more mindful positive thoughts one has stored up for later use when there may be suffering. From observation, I can testify that this method must work or the monks were putting up an incredible show as they all seemed incredibly content. The monks smiled easily the entire time I was there. Everything was done with such positive energy, and it was quite refreshing and comforting. It was also hard to understand, especially as a beginner meditation student, but it definitely gives one motivation to practice meditation to achieve such total and genuine happiness.

We followed the same schedule that a traditional monk would, which I appreciated being able to actually experience as it is far different than just reading about. We woke up early to watch the sunrise and enjoy morning exercise, which ultimately ended up translating to yoga in the dark. After, we mindfully walked to breakfast we ate together in silence for an hour. I always liked the idea of eating slowly and truly tasting the food. Eating mindfully is as challenging as it is rewarding; it’s something that I definitely want to continue to practice outside from the weekend. I am not sure rice has ever tasted so good or I’ve ever spent the time to recognize where the rice may have come from. I tried to savor every bite and identify the taste and texture, recognizing all the hard work that went into providing me with the dish.

This food is the gift of the whole universe; the earth, the sky, numerous living beings, and much hard loving work. May we eat with mindfulness and gratitude so as to be worthy to receive this food. May we recognize and transform our unwholesome mental states, especially our greed. May we take only food that nourishes us and prevents illness. We accept this food so that we may nurture our brotherhood and sisterhood, build our sangha, and nourish our idea of serving living beings (Touching).

I’ll admit it was frustrating to come back to dinner with my friends who had not been on the retreat, and I have to remind myself not to be judgmental. I’m not even sure what some realize they ware putting in their bodies as they are too distracted by conversation to notice the food.

I remember watching one of the older monks from Plum village take a sip of water as he did so with incredible mindfulness and thought, not rushing but actually taking the time to drink with complete awareness. He raise the glass to his lips, took a small mouthful, closed his eyes, swished the liquid in his mouth for an remarkable and thoughtful amount of time before finally swallowing, focusing on the glass as he set it back down (Touching). I tried to eat as mindfully and as concentrated as he but often was distracted or impatient. It’s actually quite satisfying and alternatively taxing to constantly be so mindful. It hardly felt like eating, but rather seemed more like studying or meditating. Rudee, one of the older monk’s from Plum Village whose English wasn’t perfect said, “if you read a magazine and eat, you’re eating the magazine, if you watch tv and eat, you’re eating the tv, if you talk to your friends and eat, you’re eating your friends… if you really want to eat, eat your food, if you don’t want to eat, don’t eat.” I can relate to appreciating and enjoying eating but sometimes I think it is okay to talk and eat or to eat while doing something, like eating popcorn at the movies; I like to go out to eat with my friends, but here it seems like there is no overlap. In this same sense, one can only commit to thinking about one activity at a time as one cannot mindfully multitask (Touching). Conclusively, while mindful meditation was good for the retreat, I am not sure I can continue this practice all of the time, especially as I have to rush around in my daily life and have things to do. At the same time, should I not bother to eat if I can’t completely focus on eating? I will continue to research eating meditation through my self study and also general research.

After eating, we sat in silence until we no longer wanted to and went to wash our own dish. Everyone washed their own dishes as “if they were the Buddha’s bottom” which could be translated to washing Jesus, if Christian, or just simply being mindful and treated the dishes with respect (Touching). The monks kept emphasizing that doing the dishes was fun and was meant to be enjoyed. I’m not sure I perceived the work as fun, but I do appreciate the concept, and I definitely didn’t feel burdened by participating in this chore.

After eating, we practiced different mediations- sitting, chanting, walking, and resting mediation. To me, I am too distracted by sitting meditation to get anything significant out of it. While I am not giving up and will continue to practice, I cannot help but be honest. I have come to realize that I like my thoughts, as annoyed by them as I may be at times. After sitting for an hour without moving can be quite hard on my body, especially as I tried to be especially still as to not disturb those around me. But as my mind wanders, my legs fall asleep. Inevitably, I’m thinking about being hungry, how this is boring, okay thinking about my breath again, what my family would think if they could see me now, what the person next to me is thinking, back to my breath, what’s that noise, focus, breath, breath, tired of thinking of my breath, et cetera… “"Whenever your mind becomes scattered, use your breath as the means to take hold of your mind again....... Breath is a tool. Breath itself is mindfulness” (Hanh, 25).

One instance during sitting meditation, I opened my eyes. I stopped focusing on myself and my self-centered breath and looked around. I was sitting across from a very happy monk, deep in meditation. He was concentrating on something- or nothing, I’m not sure. His concentration seemed remarkable as he hardly moved. He looked so content and so sure of his practice. What surprised me was how sure of himself he seemed, as there wasn’t a hint of doubt on his smiling face. This monk was apparently enlightened because of his practice with meditation, and it was overwhelming to witness. His belief was so different than mine yet he was just as passionate if not more so in his creed. I can’t really explained what happened next, or claim to be enlightened, but I can’t ignore what happened. It was a feeling of calmness and greatness at the same time and was the most significant epiphany I have ever had to date. I realized that I was Christian, and I can’t ignore it any longer. I may not be a good Catholic or even go to church regularly, but I do believe in God. I realized that I am not alone is this world and it’s not just about me. I don’t want to shut my eyes and focus on my breath and Buddhism isn’t right for me. It’s not enough and that isn’t what this world is about. I understand the need for focusing on yourself, loving yourself even, but for that to be the ultimate objective seems ridiculous to me only because there must be a presence connecting this world that makes things and people matter. I realized it can’t be just the here and now because there I felt something so much more than that. Maybe I was in a daze or maybe I was just trying to read something that wasn’t there, but my world changed. I know that God isn’t a part of everyone’s life, but I don’t think God should be. It’s incredibly hard to explain or even to know what happened- but something clicked when I least expected it to.

After this, I needed to remove myself from the group and went for a walk to be alone. I thought about my importance in the world, something I incessantly tend to neglect, and the beauty of individualism and personal thought. How different people can live their lives and call it happiness. As much as I was smiling and enjoying focusing on myself, I can’t admit to every feeling ecstatically happy at any one point during the retreat. While not completely joyful, I did appreciate stepping back and being aware of my surroundings and action in a mindful pursuit. “Breathing in I calm my body. Breathing out I smile. Dwelling in the present moment, I know this is a wonderful moment” (Hanh, 10). Thich Ntah Hanh truly believes that living in the moment will result in complete satisfacation and happiness, believing that this can be achieved through constant mindful meditation.

While satisfied with my newfound mindfulness from the sitting meditation, I continued to be slightly frustrated with the fundamentals of sitting still for so long. I find it hard to practice focusing on my breathing when I don’t really care if my mind wanders or not. I was excited to learn about walking meditation, which is something I had yet to begin practicing in my self study. Initially, I find walking meditation comfortable and more befitting to me. I was able to use my steps to guide my focus and concentrate on me without feeling awkwardly stiff and out of place. It was actually quite relaxing, and I submit to practice walking meditation more as I continue to study Buddhism or at least go on walks more.
I may never be able to call myself Buddhist but already I have seen a significant change in the pace of many of my daily activities.

"We should be able to bring the practice of meditation hall into our daily lives. We need to discuss among ourselves how to do it. Do you practice breathing between phone calls? Do you practice smiling while cutting carrots? Do you practice relaxation after hard hours of work? These are practical questions. If you know how to apply meditation to dinner time, leisure time, sleeping time, it will penetrate your daily life, and it will also have a tremendous effect on social concerns" (Hanh, 35).

Maybe it’s because I have lived in Thailand for the past few mints or maybe it’s practicing mindful meditation. I can’t say that it doesn’t annoy me when people rush everywhere and don’t pay attention to the present moment, especially those who incessantly look towards the future. At the same time, while my practice has made me more mindful in my everyday life, I’m not sure that I will further pursue meditating on a regular basis by myself.

----

be a monk? check.

as a ps: I absolutly love Thailand... this place suits me and it's going to be hard to leave next month....
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on mt philo with sean
Nov. 1st, 2006 @ 12:03 pm village homestay journal
Ahka Village


When we first arrived at the village, we were warmly greeted by the Ahka who were wearing traditional attire. Because we had went to the Hill Tribe Museum earlier that day, I knew what to expect- beads and feathers. It is my understanding that this is what the Ahka wore all the time. After taking pictures and being introduced to my family, I noticed that a lot of the villagers took off their hats and warm clothes only to change into jeans and tee-shirts. It seemed that they were only wearing the clothes because they thought we wanted them to. In reality, I had seen the clothes in the museum and would have been fine if my host mother didn’t dress up.

Also, while my mother only wore the traditional clothes minimally, I noticed that my grandmother and some of the other elders continued to wear them all the time. Interestingly enough, the first night I wanted to take pictures of my family. Initially, my grandparents were confused and seemed a little offended that I wanted to take their picture and made me wait until they put on the Ahka clothes before I could take any more. Did they not want to be seen wearing their simple every day clothes- even though that was reality? I guess it wouldn’t have made very interesting museum material. Is this because this is what they were used to and liked to do? I noticed that when we danced around the bonfire at night, they got dressed up again. I am not sure if they would dress and participate in the dancing ritual if we weren’t there. Conclusively, clothing was probably one of the most obvious examples of the state of custom and cultural preservation.

During the day, I felt that I was really able to interact with my family and see how they really lived. At night, it seemed like they just wanted to put on a show and be a display. At night, when we got to talk directly to the hill tribal leader, he mentioned that this was the “time of confusion” meaning that this was a transition period- in many respects. On the other hand, he did also say that having us there was like “holding up a mirror” supposedly meaning so the people can see what they look like. Does this mean that they want to hold on to the traditions and the customs of the past or would they not bother if we weren’t interested? It’s hard to say. It seemed like every time we were about to do something as a group, they would make sure to say that it would be authentic, genuine, and real. Why wasn’t enjoying a simple breakfast with my family advertised as real but when I had to dance around the bonfire in their clothes, which to me only seemed surreal was advertised as genuine? It’s as though they don’t accept their daily life as being unique and as being authentic but only if they play dress up is it worth mentioning.

It’s hard to tell what my host family was thinking, and I wonder how often she has strangers sleep on her floor and take pictures of her life. I know that she is curious to see how I live my life, but I’m not sure she could understand from the pictures I brought. In that respect, she could never get an accurate perspective because all she knows is that Americans like to take pictures and supposedly want to dress up. In that respect, I am not sure how accurate an exchange we had or if we just stepped into some surreal interactive museum display.

In terms of their identity, or at least the identity that they want to be perceived to have whether actually true to reality or not, is the importance of land and territory. Without rice, this tribe wouldn’t be the same. It is so important for them to be self sufficient. At night, it was mentioned that those who can grow their own food are the ones that are well off. While this isn’t unique to the Ahka tribe, it was important to them and was not something advertised. It was just a part of their every day life. Besides land, the Ahka have six key elements that they feel are necessary to be considered an official tribe. I feel like these help bring the community together and keep all Ahka villages on the same page, but at the same time seem so random and unimportant in actual daily life.

On a side note, last weekend I visited the Karen village with my roommate. When I got there, I could tell that they weren’t really expecting to see Farang because they were surprised at my presence. They didn’t try to put on a show or act in a certain museum-like way, so I was able to see how the tribe really lived. Something that I found interesting is that while my roommate loved her family and enjoyed being home, she was just as excited to come back to Payap. She said she missed her room and probably having access to a clean bathroom. As soon as we walked in the door to our room, she let out a huge sigh of relief and ran to turn on her TV. The first thing she said was that she missed her TV. She probably watches more than three hours every night. She seems to really like studying in the city as opposed to living in her humble village, but she does also have a certain amount of pride associated with her village. She likes to wear the Karen attire and speak their local language. I just find it interesting to compare her situation with the home stay in the Ahka village as it gives me a better perspective.
About this Entry
on mt philo with sean
Oct. 25th, 2006 @ 11:48 am "my mind is racing as it always will"
PS (prescript) I've been slack on my updates only because my frequent skypage/quality time with aim, but also because I have been so busy- school has kinda picked up- and I have been trying to get in as much of the city as I can... I'll try to keep you posted though... just realize that I am happily occupied and my lack of writing isn't passive aggressive or anything 555

I’ve never felt more at home or felt more homesick at the same time than when I was at the Ahka village.

The weekend started with a crazy bus ride through the wonderful rolling hills of Chiang Rai. As usual, our bus was having trouble with the hills, we got lost, the transmission died, et cetera… we stopped for lunch at Condoms and Cabbages, which is actually a very respectable chain that helps promote aids awareness.

When we got to the hill tribe, we were instantly welcomed by the Ahka village people- in complete ahka attire (lots of feathers and beads). I feel like I have so much to do and have so much going on, so you’ll have to excuse me on this one…. But highlights included:
- avoiding eating pretty much everything but the rice
- showers outside (being one with nature = over rated)
- seeing ghosts
- managing to break three houses (fell through bamboo floors- houses made of stilts about seven feet in the air… whoops… that’s the last time they will try to over feed farang) also, as a side note- bamboo is pretty much the most resourceful thing on the planet- we ate it, used it to build a house, used it to make bowls and tables, and you can wear it (whoa)
- learning the art of picking rice
- hiking through the beautiful mountains of Ban Chareon
- dressing up in traditional Ahka clothes and dancing around the bonfire late into the night
- one of my friends got bite by a scorpion and had to go to the hospital because it spread into her blood stream
- I got to help build one of their houses (only for farang in the future to break)

Last weekend, we had Monday off for some king’s (maybe rama the fifth?) and I always have Friday off, so Ashley Bruscue and I decided to chill at my rooommate’s house since we had such a long weekend. Unfortunately, her house was more of a shack in the middle of a random construction zone so we stayed at her sister’s NGO office instead, but that turned out to be a nice alternative. It was such a random weekend. We met a lot of her friends and family (and extended family?) and toured around where she lives. We went out to eat at the most random places like her friend’s basement or some random Home Depot- essentially, we ate in the middle of aisle 12 and 13, as customers shopped around us seemingly unaware of our awkward presence- good food though. Then Da told us to hitchhike and we ended up driving for like 2 hours north to Burma, where we then got on a boat for another unknown excursion. As soon as we reached Burma, everyone jumped out, grabbed some sand- filled their little plastic bags- stole some land- and hopped back on- armed guarded security and all. Anyway, it was a fun weekend and I am glad I got to see what Da’s life outside school is like. She’s probably one of my best friend’s here, and I am definitely squeezing her in my suitcase so she can come back with me.

On a completely different tangent, I was talking to Seany about what it will be like to be home. It’s weird to think I’ll be home in a little over a month- and I certainly miss everyone and am looking forward to it for sure- but I will definitely miss being here as well. When trying to decide if I should stay another semester or not, I realized that my favorite part about Thailand can’t last forever. I have loved the vacation aspect and the exchange rate is amazing- but I think what I really love about being here is my initial approach to being independent- I really liked trying to figure out the city, finding my way around, learning the language, discovering the better restaurants, meeting new Thai friends… et cetera. It’s been grand and definitely one of my favorite semesters/trips. It makes me want to travel more- but also it makes me feel like if and when I travel back to Thailand it will be like coming home as I am already so familiar. It’s comforting to know that I fit in here and will feel welcomed coming back. What has helped me the most, I think is my uniform. When I have traveled in the past, I have always hated sticking out and looking like a tourist, but when I where my uniform, I am taken seriously and much more respected. Also, it makes getting dressed in the morning easier… 555… Anyway just some thoughts I’m sure will be squeezed into an IPSL journal in the future.

Also, it’s a perfect 83 degrees here… take that Vermont.

This weekend, I am going to a Thich Nan Han Buddhist meditation retreat (someone please tell Robert) and I’m going to live like a monk for three days. I’m going with a small group of friends and am going to practice breathing (apparently I do not know) thinking (?) and sitting… all skills which I need to approve on. Sarcasm aside, it should be amazing and I am very excited.

Another side note: Robert Fleming (who I went to Uganda with a few years back and has returned to open an orphanage there) has malaria and is apparently really sick. I don’t know who knows him or who reads this… but it’s very intense and I just thought I’d put it out there.
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on mt philo with sean
Oct. 13th, 2006 @ 01:58 pm (no subject)
1. check out the williston whistle... look for something on page six... I think?

2. www.akhathai.com to check out where I will be staying this weekend (rural homestay number 3.... the food is supposed to give you brain tumors and the water has parasites... go figure - I'm doomed!)

3. headed to Da's house next weekend for a real homestay with ppl who actually speak cental thai and aren't trying to make a living by posing awkwardly for pictures of "natural and ethnic tribal ppl only 30baht"

4. In two weeks, I'm going to a thich nan han retreat.... if you know me, you know who this is. Basically, it's going to be awesome and robert lair is going to be jealous.

5. so... a lot of my friends have realized that things here are pretty cheap. In the last week, people have decided to get piercings, tatoos, hair cuts and colors, wedding dresses and suits even... any suggestions anyone? gabe has suggested a nose ring... ummm well.... you first...?

6. my sister said she got 2 feet of snow already... it is hot and sunny here still (555 not to brag of course)

7. missin home.... miss my friends... miss my family... wish I could take you out for a steak dinner mckeough
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on mt philo with sean
Oct. 9th, 2006 @ 06:13 am mail call
I just wanted to give a shoutout to everyone who has been sending me mail (yay four letters in one day). I appreciate the love and support... but I just wanted to note that while I have recieved letters, they all have the wrong address so I do not know how they are getting to me. 555, I guess they just know how to find me. Try...

Jenna Katz
Office of International Affairs
Payap University
Amphur Maung, Chiang Mai
Thailand 50000
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on mt philo with sean
Oct. 7th, 2006 @ 04:24 pm I never wanted to leave those kids... and all I came for was the milk break
For the last week, I got to run an English Camp with the YMCA with three of my friends from here (Matt, Ericka, and Alex). It was absolutley amazing and one of the coolest experience's of my life... Skipping school was only the beginning. We got to stay at a resort that was run by my bank so it was wonderfully luxurious (a nice vacation from the IFH dorms). The four of us from Payap, two other guys (both named Paul, one who spends half a year here and half a year workin in australia - that guy knows how to live- and one our age- a real troublemaker... you don't even want to know) and a volunteer from Korea, Jade, pretty much ran the entire show, which is something that I didn't really expect. Initally, we thought we were just supplementary, but we ended up completely in charge of the kids. It was really empowering to have that much responsibility- I don’t think I’ve ever talked with a microphone so much.... so good. Maybe I will be a teacher when I grow up...

All seven of us had a group of ten kids who we were in charge of (there were seventy kids total) and helped during activities and then we rotated who ran the activities, so everyone got to lead and everyone got to teach. We tried to mix up the activities so no one would get bored and spaced them out with plenty of breaks and tasty snacks (I don’t think I’ve ever ate so much in my life). We wrote lots of stories, acted out skits, sang songs muck muck (they were absolutely amazing at Karaoke- favorite songs included Zombie by the Cranberries, Cheeky girls, and I will Survive), walk rally (which involved a pretty challenging scavenger hunt around the entire resort), listening games (where we read a conversation and then they had to fill in the blank words), building towers out of just newspaper and string (teambuilding and using English to communicate, btw my team won this challenge as they had the tallest tower that didn't fall over- I was so proud!), well you know, the list goes on- basically just a lot of fun games to help them practice their English. The first thing we taught them was "what's up man?" and it went on from there...

One of my favorite activites was when we went to the Night Safari in Chiang Mai- which is one of the biggest zoo’s in Asia. Because we went at night, it seemed more natural and less zoo like, which was awesome because a lot of it was open and the fences blended in. I got to see monkeys chilling with bunnies and turtles (I didn’t know they were friends, but apparently they get along well), white lions (which were just behind a thin little wire fence… of course I wanted to take a good picture so I stuck my hand through that little wire fence… oh, until the lion decided to come after me that is, I'm serious it got up as soon as I encrouched on his territory… don’t worry mom, I ran fast) iguanas (lazy as they are), giraffes and zebras (who wanted to follow us... and if you know me, you know how much I love giraffes) and oh we saw so many lions and jaguars. I accidently got too close at one point and they got in this huge loud catfight. They were purring and rolling around clawing at each other just feet away from me and it was all my fault. I was scared because I thought I had started it and they might et bored of each other and come after me... The bears were adorable and the gazelles made me feel like I was right back in Africa. What a bonus it was… I wish I could have taken pictures but they didn’t really come out because it was so dark and we weren’t allowed to use a flash. That might have made it more enjoyable though as I didn’t have to experience it behind a lens… so sorry guys, you’ll just have to go. And go, I most certainly recommend.

You’ll have to see the pictures of the camp to really understand how incredible the kids were… but I will say that I absolutely loved it. I could have stayed forever, I'm not sure if I liked being in charge more or if I just generally liked being with the kids. I was P’Jenna- Adjan Jenna- I was their teacher. I've never had to grow up so fast. “Miss Jenna, may I use the lou?” I loved having that much responsibility. They really looked up to me (to me!) to help them learn but also as a friend since I am only a few years older than them. It was definitely interesting to be on the other side of the fence, to be grading papers and correcting grammar. Now, I have to return to school and write a 20 page paper on Buddhism and take a test on how to tell time in Thai.... complete role reversal. I got to know my ten kids like they were my own. When we had competitions with the other teams- heck I wanted my kids to win just as much as they wanted to... it actually got pretty competitive. Our group was called the Coolest (they picked the name of course) Matt’s team was Team Never Die, Ericka’s was Rising Sun, and Alex’s team was called Lucifer. Their English was pretty good, they just needed confidence- and confidence I tried to give them. We also all had ‘buddies’ which were kind of like secret santa. Only someone kept giving my buddy expensive gifts (mostly food) who was probably a secret admirer, but she thought it was me. My buddy bought me ice cream and fruit at every meal and wrote me cute notes. I have so many little stories and memories but writing them just confines my experience and puts a limit on my memories, so I won’t indulge you too much.

When we left, the YMCA thought we did such a good job- they wanted to pay us 2000 baht…. I couldn’t believe it. Of course, we refused the money as it was service and they had paid for all our meals and accommodation. Thai people are ridiculous sometimes. Best week ever... and all I came for was the milk break.
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on mt philo with sean
Oct. 7th, 2006 @ 08:54 am Suhkothai: I know you've all been waiting to read what I've been up to....
One of the best things about this study abroad program, is that every other weekend, everyone (all teachers and students involved with thai studies) goes somewhere- either a home stay or something more tourist-like. It’s really refreshing to be with teachers outside of the academic environment, and it’s been awesome forming relationships with my adjans as people. I feel like I’ve gotten to know my adjans as friends and role models, not just teachers. I never thought I could get past this barrier but Thailand has yet again proved me wrong. On the other hand, I may have learned too much about some of them and can now never look back…

On Friday afternoon, we all jammed in this huge party bus for a six hour bus ride to Sukhothai, which is basically an old city (central) destroyed by Burma. Basically, all that exists now is ruins and a few tourist guests house to accommodate the site seeing, but more on that later. I sat with Ben on the way there, which actually made things quite enjoyable considering the distance we had to travel. We basically just slept, talked, and ate some snacks. Typical scene there.

When we got there, we stayed at thee best guest house I have ever been to- no kidding. It was so quaint and perfect- everything was just so peaceful and serene- and beautiful. It was called the Orchid Hibiscus (you know you want to google it) and was run by the sweetest little Italian guy. We’re definitely going back there, Mckeough, definitely. After checking in, Ashley was my roommate, we went to the best dinner I’ve had in a long time- my favorite part was surprisingly the shrimp (I’ve never had shrimp before). Then we all (30 farang) jumped into the pool and enjoyed swimming and relaxing under the stars for the rest of the night. Twas perfect and much needed. It felt like vacation- and only 200 baht a night! I love school.
After a breakfast a roi- seriously one of the best breakfasts of my life- we went to tour the city. Breakfast included toast, eggs, fresh juice (which as much fruit “pon la mai” that they have here, is as rare as it is delicious) basically just the foods I miss from home- and oh they had sweet honeycomb- complete with bees! Maybe the best part was the piles of homemade donuts… mmm

For the tour, I was given 100 baht, a map, and a bike and told to be free. Sukhothai is a pretty big city, but it’s all flat and completely bikeable. The ruins were amazing- just to be able to walk around in a place that was so historical and so beautiful- so well preserved (considering). I really appreciated just biking around all morning by myself, stopping to check out the different sites and taking pictures (I’m sorry if they all look the same- but believe me- tis only perceived that way to the untrained eye). It was quite possibly the best tour of my life- aka I hate being lead around in a big group only to be talked at by some old guy who has given this same monotone speech a hundred times before. Also, my bike was “the crocodile” which was just awesome in it of itself. I spent about three hours biking around in the heat until I realized it was time to eat, so I met up with some friends and we headed to eat lunch together. We got the best smoothies and were ready for more cruising. By this time, I had already explored a lot of the old city, so I decided to go to find the new city with Matt who was up for some adventure as well. Of course, we didn’t know exactly how to get there but there was a sign that clearly said it was 40km away. I’m not sure how doable this actually is, especially in the ridiculous heat, but there was a sign for a cave and a waterfall- so I was on board anyway. After Matt and I biked about an hour, hour and a half, along the same dirt road under the sun, we decided to ask a local if we were close/on the right track. They ended up laughing at us silly farang- insisting that it would be impossible to get there by bike and what we were looking for was on the other side of the mountain (see pictures)… So we just stopped at random homes and tried to make friends all the way back pretending that we knew what was going on. Needless to say, I was exhausted and burnt when I got back to the guest house. Remember bunkfest 05 when Gabe was so sunburnt that it hurt to take a shower? Pretty much my situation exactly. At least, I wasn’t alone. It was weird to see where the sun hit me too, very specific part of my body that was exposed to the sun… we all look a little silly now… After another dinner ah roi and more swimming under the stars, Ashley and I spent the night discussing Buddhism (I’m reading Ancient Wisdom, Modern World- by the Dalai Lama, which is what sparked this convo). The next morning, we saw more ruins before we headed back to IFH.

It was pretty much the best weekend ever… not to brag or anything. But definitely just what I needed to cure a little case of being homesick.

Tomorrow, I’m going to be working with the International Relations Sector of YMCA and run a camp for kids who want to practice their English. I’ll be staying with three of my other friends for the week in a resort about an hour away. It should be pretty interesting although I don’t (as usual) know what to expect.
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Sep. 28th, 2006 @ 08:10 am another journal for IPSL class
Normally, I would never miss a day of school for anything. Before I came to Thailand, I put an extreme amount of value and focus in my education. After being here a while, I have learned that it may be better to be mindful of the community and not just focus on the individual self. If I was at home, I would never even think about missing an entire week’s worth of classes, thinking only about what I would be missing and how it would affect my grade. To me, that seems almost selfish now as I question the importance of self. Here, I feel more comfortable taking the time off because I know that my decision will help better the community, which at this point seems more important. My main reason to study abroad in Thailand with IPSL was to do as much service as possible, which coupled with my consistent frustration with communication with my placements, it only makes sense to devote an entire week to the YMCA organization. I want to work with Thai kids and making a noticeable difference in their lives, which is something I am struggling with at Agape. As much enjoyment as I get out of going to the orphanage, I do not know to what extent I am positively helping. I feel that going to Agape is more beneficial for me as I like to bring smile’s to kids faces; however, I don’t want to be naive and think I am really making a change in Thailand. In other words, I hope to leave a dent in Thailand and feel good about the work I accomplished, not just the grade I get.

In our readings about Working with the Thais, I have noticed that building relationships is one way to effectively accomplish things. At Agape, I come in for only a few hours a few times a week, which has made it hard for me to get to know the kids on a personal level. It is my intention that this will not be the same with the YMCA English camp that I am working with because I will interact with the same kids all day for an entire week. I hope that knowing the importance of relationships will help me to help the kids, and I can be involved in a project that matters that the kids will remember.
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on mt philo with sean
Sep. 26th, 2006 @ 08:24 am update
Last night, we learned that the wifi was just temp and we wouldn't actually have it for another week... bo bo... I don't think I described the walk to the library in full... it's pretty much a deathtrap every time and certainly no stroll in the park. I have to cross eight lanes of traffic on the superhighway and go under this bridge through a tunnel that is barely wide enough for a car. It's sketchy to walk under it because in Thailand, pedestrians walk in the same direction as cars so they kinda sneak up behind you. 555. At least it's not too far away... and I almost appreciate the danger aspect of things (you know, spice up my morning a little)

In other news, last night I went over to McCormick hospital with one of my friends who was dying. We went over with Jew, who is our awesome suntow driver that does the service with us at Agape. The hospital was extremely efficent and literally we were in and out of there in just twenty minutes- check up, diagnosis, med, and bill... it was crazy fast. To make ourselves feel better we went out to eat. I also checked in on my Indian friend which was awesome (he's feeling better btw). After we were just walking around trying to figure out how to get back when Jew randomly pulls up next to us. We jumped in greatfully and drove around the city for about an hour. We didn't know where we were going, but I had full confidence in Jew. We ended up at an American cafe where some of our friends were. It was so random. When I got back, I studied some Thai with my roommate as I have a quest (quiz/test) today. Da's been stressing about finals week, too and studyin more than ever...

This weekend we head to the old capital and rumor has it we're going to stay in a hotel. As usual, I shall keep you posted.
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on mt philo with sean
Sep. 24th, 2006 @ 10:33 pm wireless in the dorms...
So after getting back from dinner and the sunday market (mmm mango salad) I returned back only to learn that we had internet access in the IFH! This may not seem like a big deal to you, but it's like Christmas here and we are all celebrating. No more walks to the library to check email- not that I'm lazy, it just means I can get online at a more decent hour... Anyway, anyone who wants to talk for free (this means you, Mckeough) I am going to get skype and it works really well so look into it and we can talk through headphones/cmp...

Also, in other news, I went to this Indian shop near the market and the weirdest thing happened. I started talking to the shop keeper and he kept saying he knew me from somewhere but couldn't place it. I told him that I had just returned from a trip to India this summer and he said... you mean on Sudder street? Yes... he said that. He recognized me from India! It was so crazy... we talked for a while and I plan to buy something from his shop. Anyway... it was so weird. He was really against Bush and couldn't have said anything more harsh and he described what he believed Bush was doing to his people.

In other news, I gravely underestimated the effect Ramadon would have on me... only have the canteen was open! 555. Also, the Indian man was really sick yesterday becuase it was the first day and he had not yet eaten. He was really weak and about to fall over... I couldn't help but be curious about this aspect of their religion.
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Sep. 24th, 2006 @ 10:05 pm Weekly Service Journal
(this is mostly for my parents and REON who speak so highly of my journal updates and written thoughts that I tend to post every now and again- love you)

When I think of service, I think of helping people. I think of fulfilling a need that someone might have, and how I can personally improve his or her life. I have been involved in service projects all over the world with one common similarity: people. When I was asked what kind of service work I wanted to be involved with when I came to Thailand, I immediately wanted to work with kids and continue my safe pattern of serving people. I have loved working in the orphanage these past few weeks and enjoy getting to know and love all the children. But working with kids isn’t new to me, and I wasn’t being challenged as much as I would like.

When I heard that there was an environmental project that involved helping to construct dams and work with nature, I decided that I had to get involved. I love the vastness of nature, and the beauty of the natural world but have never given back anything to the environment. Sometimes it feels that I am taking advantage of one of my favorite things in life and I hoped to correct this feeling of guilt. After working on the dam project, I have come to appreciate nature even more, and hopefully will gain a better understanding as I continue to serve. Thailand is just so beautiful, and I want it to stay that way. I love the idea of taking service beyond directly helping people and making a difference that will last longer than I will.

I have noticed that teamwork in Thailand is an important aspect of work and have never appreciated being with a group of people more. When we arrived at the dam site, we were dropped off in front of a huge pile of sand, cement, and rocks and were told we had to carry it up the mountain. Doing this alone would have been impossible; machinery would have been efficient but not as enjoyable. I learned that the only way to do something in Thailand is to take all day and do it together. “There is a powerful emphasis on teamwork” (Bridging the Gap, 10). Soon, 100 kids arrived, and we were able to work together to get the project accomplished. We sang and made a game of it as the kids ran ahead blissfully. It didn’t even seem like work and the nine hour day went by quickly. What once seemed like an unbearable task turned into one of the most fun days I’ve had in Thailand. I want to bring this Thai mentality to everything that I do. I have a new adoration for teamwork and will try not to focus so much as getting something done as enjoying doing it.

_____

Da’s contribution:

555

(meaning hahaha… as the number five is ha rising tone…neung song sam see ha 12345)
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Sep. 24th, 2006 @ 10:02 pm WE HAVE WIRELESS IN THE DORMS!! (aka aim is back in my life)
I biked over to the library this morning and thought I’d update you on what I was reading. It’s called What the Buddha Never Told you (Ward, 1993) and it’s really good and you should all read it. Roughly, it’s about a farang who comes to Thailand (after traveling all over the place) who decides he want so to a monk. It gives a very real perspective of the frustrations and challenges about being a monk- isolated from society and being mandated to adapt to new rules, diet, and over all living style… so please check it out if you have any interest whatsoever… Aizzle this means you (also, I will try to find that book here that you speak of, although I may not have time to read it).

Here’s example of what goes on in a monk’s head for you:

“How big is a stick? It depends on what you want to use it for, doesn’t it? If you need a bigger one, then it is too small. If you need a smaller one, then it’s too big. A stick isn’t big or small at all. It becomes a product of your desires. In this way, suffering is brought into the world” (21).

In fishing, as in love,
the trick is freeing the line,
not reeling it in

I forget to remember
but can’t ever remember
to forget

Searching in exotic places
finding myself
in bathroom mirror

This is something I never understood about being a monk, and the author wonders this as well- of course not providing any real answers as any true Buddhist would do,

“What’s the use of solving your personal suffering if the solution keeps you isolated from everyone else’s suffering?” (33).

He also is in love with Mother Theresa which is awesome because I am sick of people who don’t give her- or other Christian missionaries who are just trying to emulate her- credit. I’m still trying to figure out my experience and involvement with India and reading about other people’s perspectives helps me…

“[Calcutta] is packed full of beggars in grey rags. They live on the street corners, under canvas or bits of cardboard. They build fires out of coconut shells and pick through mountains of rotting garbage for food. If they are lucky they can pull a rickshaw of push a cart. They work like animals for enough rice to eat. I went to the home she runs for the aged and infirm. It’s in one of the worst slums in the city, right next to the hog tannery. The stench made me gag. Rivers of bile and slime choked open gutters on either side of the streets. People lived in little tin and canvas hovels alongside the bridge over the railway line, thousands of them packed in their own filth and garbage, a big stinking human maze… [it goes on but you get the idea and you’ve seen my pictures] The nuns brought in people they found on the streets who couldn’t care for themselves. They were given food to eat and a bed of their own. Perhaps for the first time in their lives somebody cared for them. That’s Mother Theresa’s work. Sure, there’s still suffering, still thousands out there begging and being raped on the streets. But now there’s a smile that wasn’t there before. There’s suffering in this slum. Mother Theresa didn’t end it. She brings love to it. And love is more real than suffering. (34-35).
_____

This afternoon, I headed on a seelaw into the city for lunch and ended up finding a really great little restaurant that served pasta for only 50 baht- such a deal for an American dish. It was on top of a nipnoi salad which was on a banana leaf and it wasn’t amazing or anything- but it was pasta and it served my craving fabulously. It was weird to walk around the city with all the police/army and basically kids my age with guns bigger than they were. I didn’t see any tanks though, so that’s a good sign, but John said he did and that he even had dinner with a few of the soldiers. We did take the “no more than five to a group” rule seriously…. Chiang Mai isn’t really a walking city and ended up just hopping a tuktuk back only to receive an “I miss-ed you” kiss from Da (did I tell you I love her?) and now we’re going to chill/do work until I go out later tonight.

More academically speaking…

The temple we went to yesterday was amazing. It was extremely sacred and if you didn’t get my pictures- let me know and I can send them to you, because some of this stuff is really cool, not that my little Kodak point and shoot really does justice. It was incredible to be somewhere that had monks walking around, a shrine full of saints, ganesh- one of the Hindu Gods, and Buddha and his famous enlightenment tree- in other words, a mix of wisdom and beliefs from different religions. I tried my best to blend in and not be “that farang” who just took pictures of everything without understanding the full meaning behind it, and I think I did a decent job. After the temple, we stopped at a Jade factory and learned about how it was made, why some is more valuable than others, and also stopped to buy a quick Christmas present for one lucky someone back home. It was nothing new to me and reminded me a lot of the Jade factory I went to in China. I always regretted not buying something back then so I was glad to redeem myself years later.

When we learn about Buddhism or Islam in class, I find so many similarities to the Christian church that I was brought up in. It makes me wonder about the roots of religion. Different strokes for different folks… and people have learned to express their faith/practice differently.

Also, I think it is appropriate to include my fortune from the temple. It was about a page long in thai, but here is the translation (for some reason, it is shorter). I am sure it is highly reliable as all fortunes are…(heck, I spent the afternoon readings palms!)

“You have good luck. You and boyfriend live far (I have two sources telling me this is what it actually says… sooo weird, my mom would be disappointed in me for even remotely looking into this) but you and boyfriend are not tired and not hard- easy if you see each other. Happy now. Slow but sure in love. If you are sad: not very much and tomorrow you will be fine. Get a boy-baby if you’re married.”
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Sep. 22nd, 2006 @ 08:55 am “Don’t be seen gathering in groups of five or more people”
COUP D’ETAT!

What exactly does this mean for Thailand and where do I fit into all this? I'm sure you're desperate to know my thoughts... and I’ll be honest, government and politics were never on the top of my radar before I came to Thailand, yet it is almost all I can think about as I watch pamphlets falling from the skies and fire works are being set off behind my school.

In Honors US History, (does anyone remember this class) I learned that America is a democracy… Ideally, this means the power of the people and before these last few days, I believe I took this for granted and “democracy” was just another word in my vocabulary. I certainly underestimated the depth and meaning of such a form of govt.

I don't want to say anything negative against Bush or attack the notorious and continual war on terror, but I would like to note that I didn’t have any real input on either of these issues, democracy though it is, and there’s pretty much nothing I can do about it (if I wanted to). However, as much as the American government isn’t ideal in this respect and it certainly isn’t perfect, it is consistent and it is reliable. Bush will be in power until the next election indisputably, at which time the people will vote for their next leader. I like the stability, and it is something I took for granted living in the states. In Thailand… anything could happen. The only thing that keeps coups from not being even more frequent is the rain.

Does democracy work? Usually; however… what if it doesn’t? For example, what if the most popular candidate does not win (I’m sure I don’t have to remind you who had the popular vote in the last presidential election and who won because of the electoral college). That brings me to the question, do I have more faith in the people or the system? Well, what happened? Bush got another four years in the oval office and the indifference of most Americans let this one slide… although to be fair it was ripped apart by the news for a while- but that’s it… I don’t want to bash the American government or presidency under any means. I love the fourth of July just as much as the next American… I am simply comparing the issues. In other words, I’m not sure Thailand would have ever let this happen as they aren’t afraid to re-evaluate their government (too often? I don’t know)

As I understand it,

In Thailand, there is a divide among the country; some favor Thaksin and some don’t, but most people I have come to discover have some sort of opinion albeit they do not express it as such (creepy) unless of course there is a coup. Nonetheless, there was enough people against him to launch this coup. Aka… lets take a recess from government and start over. What does this mean for the country as of now? There’s no government, no constitution, (bbc.com or cnn.com) can the people really just do anything they want? Basically, everyone is still in complete adoration of the king (monday: king’s day- i.e. you better be wearing a yellow shirt and join the yellow army). It is sincere and it is almost divine. Everywhere there are flags to love and support the king… or the idea of the king, I’m not sure. So, the country is basically not falling apart because of the king. But how much power does he really have? He always will have a say in what goes on (meaning he had to have given the aok for the coup to go through… contrary to Thaksin’s (toxin?) belief that the king doesn’t get involved in politics). But what happens if something happens to the king while this martial law is going on… next in line? The prince. I’m sure the news can inform you on the people’s opinion of him.

In conclusion, it’s complicated and I don’t even know the half of it. American news channels were blocked and I couldn’t use the internet, and apparently I’m not getting all my emails. Some phones were cut off… I’ve been told everything is being censored and watched. It’s hard for me to understand it all and I’m still trying to collect my thoughts.

In other words, I’ve never been in a coup before…

I think it bothers me so much because I don’t understand what exactly is going on. If I was thai, maybe I would choose indifference. If I was in the states, maybe I could just ignore it or at least it would be easier to be more critical. But constitutionally monarchy? I’m a farang in Thailand and I want it all to just be okay.

America puts so much emphasis and favor into the government, while Thailand can just call it a “holiday” and things still run about the same… minus the tanks and soldiers in the streets. But as I told Seany we’ve always had a team of men outside our building so it’s not really all that different. Bush is said to have “condemned the coup” and it is a “step backwards for democracy in Thailand” but that seems pretty ethnocentric to me as I live here. Maybe I just have a different impression than those back home and certainly different than Bush, whose just looking out for his country and our own democracy.

In America, we would never have a military coup to overthrow the government… it’s not democratic, it’s just not the way to go about things. If I was still back home, I’m pretty sure that I would think Thailand was crazy, but here I have a different impression. The coup may be just what Thailand needs. My roommate says that “I don’t want Thaksin to be an administrator” so maybe the coup is a good thing? How am I of the minority opinion all of sudden… i.e. Japan wasn’t impressed, China didn’t appreciate it, New Zealand… Australia, the list goes on and I am sure you know it better than I do.

I woke up Wednesday with the news that school (and everything else) was canceled and closed. At first I was psyched: whoo hoo… but then I wanted to know why. An entire country closed down? I was told if there was violence, I would be headed over to the embassy to get the first flight out of here. But it was bloodless… how could it be bloodless? I know it sounds like I am just asking a lot of questions, but that’s really what it is. It’s an uncomfortable feeling to be living somewhere where there is so much uncertainty. The strangest thing? Nobody seems to have noticed. People walk around like puppets ignoring the lack of administration. You’d think someone would step up and say something, but I think everyone is afraid to upset the king.

As for me? I spend the afternoon at Agape (check it out: http://www.allforyouth.org/thailand.html) jumping on a trampoline with Sean and the kids. It was great to just get away and not think about the coup. As exhausting as they are, I love them all, and they help me distress and put life back into perspective. If Thailand isn’t worried about Thailand… then neither am I (aka Thailand is the master of passive aggressive…) Today I’m going to visit Doi Suthep, which is the second most sacred temple and tomorrow I’m going to help build another dam and maybe hit the silver market (anyone want something?)

PS. I know that I haven’t had the best communication with people… if I haven’t responded to an email, it’s probably because I haven’t got it. Sometimes they get quarantined right away… try my hotmail account at clinko55@hotmail or you could always send me some love through the mail… although that takes about a week (PS: “meuh gup pa” tell ol’george I got his letter today and that I thank him “muck muck”). PS: look into pennytalk.

In summary, it has been interesting to experience a coup from inside Thailand… I probably didn’t make any sense but as I said I’m just trying to figure things out, too. Let me know what America thinks. Also, thanks to all who expressed concern: I’m alive!

_____

Dedicated section for Gabe:

what color is Sunday?

This was a legitimate question in thai language … aka “same same” what smells like blue? (I think this is your country) Apparently every day has a color…? I miss you… also what’s your take on all the politics? What did Mr. Grover teach you?

“Be happy” says Da. I love Jenna every time
from…DA…your friend…
______

Message from Da:

I glad missed Jenna and friend. Mom Dad don’t concern. I will seem Jenna and teaches to Jenna. Jenna is people beautiful and joker. She is people fascinating. And all two people mildly now Jenna speak Thai very well because I teach for them. In future, I want go to America. I want tour house Jenna. Jenna and Ashley meet give a party for me. I speak very well. Do you speak very well? I want to see boyfriend Jenna. Jenna is good to be in high spirits. Mom and Dad, see you in the future. Your family and my family is same same. We’re both daughters of Mom and Dad, you.

(she’s a sweetheart, clearly).

Okay, that’s enough out of me. I just had some extra time on my hands and lots to think about lately. I’m just trying to figure this all out. Peace n love, Jenna
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Sep. 20th, 2006 @ 02:56 pm Coup chief cites intense conflicts
BANGKOK, Thailand (CNN) -- The head of Thailand's army and newly declared leader said the military's coup d'etat was complete and promised power would be returned to the people as soon as possible.

In a nationally televised address Wednesday, Gen. Sonthi Boonyaratglin said the coup was necessary to end intense conflicts in Thailand's society that Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra had created.

In his brief television address, Sonthi asked the Thai people to stay calm and support the coup leaders, The Associated Press reported.

Sonthi declared martial law, and international news channels such as CNN and the BBC were taken off the air.

On a TV station still under his government's control, however, Thaksin declared a state of emergency and insisted his government remained in charge of the armed forces and the capital.

He announced he was firing Sonthi and ordered him to report to the office of Deputy Prime Minister Chidchai Vanasaditya.

Another deputy prime minister, Surakiart Sathirathai, told CNN that the supreme commander of Thailand's armed forces would be in charge of Bangkok. That officer, General Ruengroj Mahasaranont, has made no public statement since the coup was announced.

Tanks and troops patrolled Bangkok early Wednesday after the army said the military was taking control. ((Watch tanks roll through the streets of Bangkok -- 3:53)

In his first public appearance, Sonthi repeated earlier statements that the newly created Council of Administrative Reform had revoked the Constitution.

He said Thaksin's policies had created serious rifts that needed to be healed and said Tuesday's coup was necessary after months of political turmoil.

Sonthi claimed power while the prime minister was at the United Nations in New York.

Thaksin, however, insisted his government remained in control even as Sonthi and the chiefs of the armed forces met King Bhumibol Adulyadej.

With tanks and troops on the streets of Bangkok, the prime minister canceled his scheduled Tuesday evening speech to the U.N. General Assembly in New York and skipped the traditional luncheon of world leaders that opens the session.

Through a spokesman, Sonthi said that he and the Party of Democratic Reform -- a previously unknown opposition party -- had taken power with the support of the country's armed forces.

The coup leaders declared Wednesday a holiday, with schools, banks and the country's stock market closed.

Troops on the streets adorned their weapons with yellow ribbons in a sign of loyalty to the king, and tanks were parked outside the government headquarters, which houses Thaksin's office.
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Sep. 20th, 2006 @ 02:34 pm no school.... no school for me today
On the streets of Bangkok, people were bewildered. It was the middle of the night, yet soldiers and tanks were out in force, and change was in the air.

Many streets were completely deserted, but in others small crowds gathered, with everyone asking the same, simple question: "What's happening?"

Coup rumours were circulating for hours before anything was confirmed, but with international news channels off the air and Thai stations playing nothing but images of the royal family, few people knew for sure what was going on.

_____________________

Dear Students,

Dr. Paul Chambers just sent me his take on the coup situation and asked that I forward it to students for them to consider.-Adam

Here it is:

Though it was thought that Thaksin would command support of loyalists if anyone dared challenge him, nothing every materialized. The reason is because Thailand's revered King Bhumipol Adulyadej apparently gave his tacit consent to the coup of last night.
Yes, the coup appears to have been quite bloodless. I'm OK and I suppose the only one really hurt was Thaksin, who remains holed up in a plush Manhattan hotel.

As one who has researched a great deal about the Thaksin government, it is my opinion that, though it sounds ironic, democracy has prevailed. Thaksin may have been elected, but he manipulated and exploited Thai democracy to his own personal advantage. He was on the verge of outright dictatorship. That's why so many traditionally anti-state civil society groups have called for military intervention.....they see no alternative. The question remains as to the future of the Thai polity. Will constitutionalism and elections rapidly return...or do we see the growth of military influence in Thai politics once more. As always in Thailand, everything depends on His Majesty King Bhumipol Adulyadej.

Many in the West today have voiced concern for democracy now that Thaksin is gone but we need to be careful when we say such things. First, what do we mean by democracy? Thaksin exploited the procedures of democracy to maintain power rather despotically. Secondly, if a new constitution is quickly devised which gives even greater power to the people (this is in the cards) then the coup would have broken the Thaksin-engineered logjam which was exploiting the 1997 constitution.

All is fine here.

Paul Chambers
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Sep. 20th, 2006 @ 02:32 pm "you're not allowed to leave campus"
BBC Breaking News Alert


Tanks reportedly take position outside the government house in Thailand and army TV suspends regular programming amid rumours of a coup.

For more details: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news


Thailand calls state of emergency Tuesday, September 19, 2006 11:23 AM

Thai Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra has declared a state of emergency in Bangkok amid rumours of a state coup.
"I declare Bangkok under a severe state of emergency," he said on television. He is currently at the UN in New York.

The measure came after tanks took up position around the Thai government headquarters in Bangkok, where they blocked traffic.

An army-owned TV station is showing images of the royal family and songs linked in the past with military coups.

Mr Thaksin announced he had removed the chief of the army, Thai television reported.

The prime minister ordered troops not to "move illegally", Reuters quoted him as saying in a voice broadcast on Thai television .

Thailand has a minority Muslim population, concentrated in its southern provinces. A decades-old separatist struggle in the region - which abated in the 1980s - flared again in 2004. The violence, mostly targeting members of Thailand's majority Buddhist population, has claimed more than 1,000 lives.
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Sep. 17th, 2006 @ 08:45 am 79,999 dams to go
I’m so exhausted, but I just had to update you nip noi. I just got cut off when I was talking to Seany on the phone so I’m making a public apology to make up for it (sorry mckeough… twas not my fault). Anyway, today I had quite the satisfying day. Most of my class decided they wanted to head to the hot springs and get spa treatment massages (it’s all incredibly cheap here- 80 baht an hour for a massage- no kidding). I decided to jump on board with another service trip instead so I hopped on the back of a truck and headed with just a few other people (the real troopers of the group) to help build a dam with the thai international Rotary (you can tell that one to Ed, pa) who plan on building 80,000 dams all over Thailand. We started off the morning by making cement blocks out of these really old school molds. It was a real art. The sweetest old man was instructing me what to do, but I could only follow along. It was just like icing a cake… mmm cake… Anyway, after spending the morning building the blocks, we learned what they were for. We got to meet the monk who would be walking on this 12foot walkway every night under the stars just chanting a few words under his breath as he walked back and forth, back and forth for the next couple of years. He even invited us to stay over one night if we wanted, since there were only a few of us so it would be possible. I might take him up on that next weekend… we shall see. In the afternoon, we actually got to start working on the dam project, which really just involved hiking up a mountain many times with sand, cement, and rocks over and over again. It was incredibly tiring but also so worth it. I feel like I was a part of something important and making that difference I always feel so called to do. It was cool to be able to construct a dam out of water from the stream, some random bamboo sticks from the forest, and stray dirt piles. Usually when I think of service I think exclusively of helping people, but to focus on nature and the environment will also help me to appreciate what I love most even more. The best part about it was for some reason (note that this was a rare event) 100 little thai boys were running around with us. They were extremely impressive as they would run up and down the mountain with bags twice the size of mine without shoes. They definitely showed me up. For some reason, the kids thought we were in charge and there was some kind of speech where we were all introduced and I got the biggest applause of my life (completely directed on me that is) so that was cool. Also, it was a major photoshoot for something and we kept having to pose with shovels in our hands. PS. I was craving a good waterfall after this though (9-5 hr day whew!)

Last night was crazy too, and I probably stayed out later than I should have considering that I got up at the break of dawn, but it was well worth it. We went to the Rooftop which is a pretty chill hang out on the third floor roof of some random building where we sit on pillows and mingle at low tables (kind of like the tea room). It was filled mostly with farang though so we decided to go exploring “on an adventure" as Sean D put it. We ended up walking around for a while until we hit this reggae alley where they had all kinds of live music- different bands playing an eclectic mix up and down both sides of the streets- most which included an ensemble of a thai with dreads down to his waist. It was fun to just dance and meet the other farang. G00t times as gabe would put it.

Well, I’m completely exhausted from my service today and have much work to do which of course I didn’t get done tonight because I was hanging out with Da and I went out for dinner in town…. Yadda yadda yadda you know...

Peace and love as always (too predictable)
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Sep. 17th, 2006 @ 08:37 am I can't believe my parents sent me an entire jar of peanut butter....
First, I apologize for being too busy to update more frequently… wait no, no, I’m not. I love Thailand… haha sorry it’s true. I can’t believe that I’ve been here an entire month already. I’ve never been away from home (the states) for so long and felt so comfortable or that it has gone by as quickly as it has been- which is really important for me because I miss you (and milkshakes) all so so much. I am still in my honeymoon phase of the culture shock phase, but I see the crest coming…

On Tuesday, it was Da’s birthday so I tried to throw her a party (I gave her some maple sugar candy from good ol’ Vermont) and we played some games (“len”). She insisted on going to the wat and giving gifts to the kids though… so different are our cultures. It’s been so helpful for me to have a roommate, and I really think she is helping me with my Thai besides being someone fun to chill with. Lets just say that I know a few things that my fellow classmates haven’t learned in class yet….Also, I took some pictures of my dorm room only because my rents insisted on it. They’re at the end of my chang (elephant… or also beer depending on context) wrong- payabon (hospital) montage.

Speaking of, today I got to meet an elephant up close (another check on my to-do list). It was a very different experience from almost being run over by one in Africa. The hospital part was pretty cool, I think they’re doing a really good thing, but there was one poor guy who was all tied up just so us farang could take up close pictures, pet, and feed the guy. I just felt bad; I think he wanted to run around and escape the confines of his tiny home. I would have freed the guy if I could, but it probably would have trampled me. When I was feeding it a banana (”gloi”) he almost ate my entire arm off. I got to ride one around the park which I was really exited about because it was like we were on a real safari through the jungle and it wasn’t leased up anymore. Then we saw a show which was pretty good… if watching elephants do hours of tricks is your thing that is. After the show, I snuck around behind the action and talked to the trainers and got up close and personal with Jo Jo, who was my favorite elephant in the show. He painted me a picture (abstract) and I have declared it my best souvenir so far.

Well anyway, more academically speaking, my islam elective starts on Monday. I don’t really know too much about the subject, so I am sincerely curious to know more- especially since I’ll be free to learn without worrying about my grade or GPA., which sometimes serves as a distraction from really getting into something at school for me. This also means that I no longer have class on Friday! This is good though because I was crammed pretty much from 9-3 with school and then I always was so tired after I got back from the orphanage after that at night. Now I can devote more time and energy into theee most adorable kids and spend more time in chiang mai.

I’m pretty impressed with Agape. It’s such a beautiful home- they’re really doing a good thing. I can’t imagine what it would be like to grow up without parents, especially since I depended so much on mine when I was growing up (by the way, thanks for the giant jar of peanut butter mom and dad- love you). The place has a few volunteer adults who distribute medicine and served\ dinner, but there is no constant role model in these kids lives. I have never focused on the psychological aspect of living in an orphanage as I have always worried about how they were physically being treated and looked after. When Sean and I go to play with the kids, we go to have fun, but we also have to be careful to be good role models. What will they do when they grow older and have to leave their family of 50 other kids their age? It’s hard to think about. I’m getting to know the kids better though. I know which ones will pout and mope to get attention, and which ones need kisses and hugs to feel loved. I know which ones are shy and will need me to go up to them or they won’t get any attention. Last time I went, one girl started playing with my hair, and then another girl came over, and then a little boy, and pretty soon everyone wanted to run their fingers through my long brown hair. I love how I can bring entertainment by just having hair. They’re so curious about everything- my skin color, my jewelry, it’s amazing what interests kids sometimes. Kids are the same everywhere. It doesn’t matter that we don’t speak the same language (although they do help me learn new words) because we get along so well just by being ourselves- aka you don’t need to know thai to jump on a trampoline and have fun. It makes me think that talking is less significant than what we make it out to be. Sorry… I’m kind of rambling. I have to write a paper about it for class, and I’m just trying to collect my thoughts.

The best part about our last visit though is that our suntow driver actually decided to hang out with the kids rather than drop us off and pick us up later. So good.

What else is new? Well, I had my thai language midterm on Wednesday. Mid term. Middle of the term. What? How is that possible? Well, our language class is conversation based and in one month we will have a final for that. For the last two months, our thai class becomes writing and reading oriented. I hope I did well, but you can never tell with those things, also smc only requires a c- outta me. I had to introduce myself, give directions, ask and answer questions, describe a picture, pretty elementary things. Learning a language is pretty empowering and there’s definitely a learning curve to it. As a side note, I think I eased dropped on my first conversation. It was about Listerine (of all things). One of the volunteers at Agape was holding up a bottle of the orange kind and she said “sawn gup nam” which is orange and water and then something something “sograpbo” which is the fanatics for dirty. I was proud. ummmm you had to be there?

After the test, I got online and got to talk to some of my favorite people from back home for the first time on AIM. I haven’t bought a phone yet so I haven’t really been able to talk to anyone in a real lengthy conversation. Of course it made me homesick, and everyone in the library (“hung sa mood”) thought I was crazy and wanted to know what I was so excited about. Oh thai people and their not wanting to be emotional. I miss you guys- especially you Mckeough. Especially you.

Okay, I have been putting off some serious work long enough. I have some reading to do and papers to write. Nothing big, I just want to get it done so I can go out to Chiang Mai tonight. I like to explore the city. All right, enough said. Peace and love as usual. Keep me posted.
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Sep. 11th, 2006 @ 01:36 pm I guess I haven't mastered sharing photos yet
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slideshow.jsp?&mode=fromsite&collid=26229712410.75510277510.1157956544494&conn_speed=1
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